Spring Tractor Maintenance

Every year when spring comes around you have to take your tractors out of their winter hiding place and prepare them for seasonal use. In this article, the author examines basic maintenance for your tractor that's been sitting inside for the winter that will help to extend the useful life of your machine.

Well, the snow has just passed for the most part you hope and the driveway needs to be graded and raked after winter's onslaught. There's mowing to be done and Aunt Viola wants her garden patch rotatilled early this year so she won't miss out on the early spring starter plants sale. It's time to get the old red belly 8N out of the barn and serviced for the coming season.

So, let's run down the process of preparing the old beast for spring. The first area to be checked is the fluid level in the three main cases. Differential or rear end, center case or hydraulic case, and the transmission. It is best to do this without running or moving the machine because any water that has collected in these cases will be close to the drain plug and well separated from the lubricating oils of the tractor. The next step would be to loosen the drain plug in each section one by one, and draw off fluid until it runs clear and clean. If this amount being drained exceeds one quart it is recommended the entire reservior be drained, flushed, and refilled with fresh, clean material. Be sure to check your fluid levels at the end and to refill to the proper level.

Another important thing to check out is your tractor's cooling system. The heart of that system is obviously the coolant. It is recommended that a good quality permanent anti-freeze be used. Generally, for spring-fall usage, a 50-50 mixed ratio of anti-freeze and water will give you maximum cooling efficiency and a minus 25 degree protection against freezing. Next, it is important to check the belts driving the water pump and the fan for cracks. If you notice any sign of fatigue they should be replaced before usage of the machine. The fan and pully also must be checked for any sign of damage or wear. If your system has a grease fitting, be sure to wipe it clean and lubricate. Both upper and lower hoses should be squeezed; if they are mushy, they should be replaced. Clamps need to be checked to make sure they are snug and secure, but be careful not to overtighten and make them too restricting.

Be sure to check the radiator itself to see if it is clean and that there are no foreign debris that could restrict air flow through the cooling fins. If you find any sign of this, blow compressed air gently through the cooling fins until they are no longer restricting air flow.

Now it's time to turn to the starting circuit. First, you should check the level of electrolyte in the battery with a hydrometer and add whatever fluid is needed to bring it up to the full level. It is advised that you add only distilled water for this purpose, as any other source may introduce potentially damaging impurities. A small electrolyte tester available at your local auto parts store for $2-$3 will show you quickly how much charge is in your battery. If it is below 50% then you should use a small charger (less than 8 amp) and bring it up to at least 75% charge before attempting to start your engine.

Next, inspect your battery cable connections for signs of corrosion. If you notice any, remove the connections and clean thoroughly. Be very careful not to allow any residue to come in contact with your clothes or hands as it will burn both very handily. As a general rule, eye and hand protection should always be worn when doing anything with your battery. If the connections are corroded a dipping in a paste made up of baking soda and water will clean them. It will also neutralize the acid which will help prevent future corrosion from taking place. Be sure to wash clean after using the baking soda paste before reinstalling them.

Next we want to check the cable connection to the starter and solenoid. Make sure they are free from corrosion and snugly secured. Be cautious not to overtighten. Check the generator also for corrosion and secure wire connections. The generating driving belt should be checked and adjusted for proper tension.

The fuel level should be filled as the storing of a tractor through the winter should have a full tank. This prevents the formation of water vapor and the subsequent rust and sediment that follows. The sediment bowl under the fuel tank should have its sight glass removed and any water and sediment cleaned out. While the sight glass is removed, the fuel supply should be turned on letting the fuel run until its clean and clear.

The oil bath type air cleaner should have its fluid checked and replenished if low or showing signs of contaminants.

At this point, it is time to engage your starter and witness the results of your labors. Following these procedures every spring will not only help assure a productive start to the season with your tractor, but will also extend the useful life of your machine.