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XIII
THE DINING-ROOM
The plan of dining
at haphazard in any of the family living-rooms persisted on the
Continent until the beginning of the eighteenth century: even then it was
comparatively rare, in France, to see a room set apart for the purpose of
dining. In small bdtels and apartments, people continued to dine in the
antechamber; where there were two antechambers, the inner was used for that
purpose; and it was only in grand houses, or in the luxurious establishments of the femmes
galantes, that dining-rooms were to be found. Even in such cases
the room described as a saUe a manger was often only a central
antechamber or saloon into which the living-rooms opened; indeed,
Madame du Barry's sumptuous dining room
156 The
Decoration of Houses
at
Luciennes was a vestibule giving directly upon the peristyle of the villa.
In England the act of dining seems to have been taken more seriously, while the rambling outgrowths of the Elizabethan residence included a greater variety of rooms than could be contained in any but the largest houses built on more symmetrical lines. Accordingly, in old English house-plans we find rooms designated as " dining-parlors "; many houses, in fact, contained two or three, each with a different exposure, so that they might be used at different seasons. These rooms can hardly be said to represent our modern dining-room, since they were not planned in connection with kitchen and offices, and were probably used as living-rooms when not needed for dining. Still, it was from the Elizabethan dining-parlor that the modern dining-room really developed; and so recently has it been specialized into a room used only for eating, that a generation ago old-fashioned people in England and America habitually used their dining-rooms to sit in. On the Continent the incongruous uses of the rooms in which people dined made it necessary that the furniture should be easily removed. In the middle ages, people dined at long tables composed of boards resting on trestles, while the seats were narrow wooden benches or stools, so constructed that they could easily be carried away when the meal was over. With the sixteenth century, the table-a-trtteaux gave way to various folding tables with legs, and the wooden stools were later replaced by folding seats without arms, called perroquets. In the middle ages, when banquets were given in the grand'salle, the plate was displayed on movable shelves covered with a velvet slip, or on elaborately carved dressers; but on ordinary occasions little silver was set out in French dining-rooms, and the great English side-
PLATE LI.

DINING-ROOM FOUNTAIN, PALACE OF FONTAINEBLEAU.
The Dining-Room
157
board, with its array of urns, trays and
wine-coolers, was unknown in France. In the common antechamber dining-room, whatever was needed
for the table was kept in a press or cupboard with solid wooden doors; changes
of service being carried on by means of serving-tables, or servants—narrow
marble-topped consoles
ranged against the walls of the room.
For examples of
dining-rooms, as we understand the term, one must look to the
grand French houses of the eighteenth century (see Plate L) and to
the same class of dwellings in England. In France such
dining-rooms were usually intended for gala entertainments, the family
being still served in antechamber or cabinet; but English houses
of the same period generally contain a family dining-room and another intended for
state.
The dining-room of
Madame du Barry at Luciennes, already referred to, was a magnificent example of
the great dining-saloon. The ceiling was a painted Olympus; the white
marble walls were subdivided by Corinthian pilasters with plinths and
capitals of gilt bronze, surmounted by a frieze of bas-reliefs framed in gold; four marble niches
contained statues by Pajou, Lecomte, and Moineau; and the general brilliancy of
effect was increased by crystal chandeliers, hung in the intercolumniations
against a background
of looking-glass.
Such a room, the
banqueting-hall of the official mistress, represents the courtisane's
ideal of magnificence: decorations as splendid, but more sober
and less theatrical, marked the dining-rooms of the aristocracy,
as at Choisy, Gaillon and Rambouillet.
The state
dining-rooms of the eighteenth century were often treated with an
order, niches with statues being placed between the pilasters.
Sometimes one of these niches contained a fountain serving as a wine-cooler—a survival
of the stone or metal
158 The
Decoration of Houses
wall-fountains in which dishes were washed in the mediaeval dining-room. Many of these earlier fountains had been merely fixed to the wall; but those of the eighteenth century, though varying greatly in design, were almost always an organic part of the wall-decoration (see Plate LI). Sometimes, in apartments of importance, they formed the pedestal of a life-size group or statue, as in the dining-room of Madame de Pompadour; while in smaller rooms they consisted of a semicircular basin of marble projecting from the wall and surmounted by groups of cupids, dolphins or classic attributes. The banqueting-gallery of Tria-non-sous-Bois contains in one of its longitudinal walls two wide niches with long marble basins; and Mariettas edition of d'Avi-ler's Cours d'Arcbitefiure gives the elevation of a recessed buffet flanked by small niches containing fountains. The following description, accompanying d'Aviler's plate, is quoted here as an instance of the manner in which elaborate compositions were worked out by the old decorators: "The second- antechamber, being sometimes used as a dining-room, is a suitable place for the buffet represented. This buffet, which may be incrusted with marble or stone, or panelled with wood-work, consists in a recess occupying one of the side walls of the room. The recess contains a shelf of marble or stone, supported on brackets and surmounting a small stone basin which serves as a wine-cooler. Above the shelf is an attic flanked by volutes, and over this attic may be placed a picture, generally a flower or fruit-piece, or the representation of a concert, or some such agreeable scene; while in the accompanying plate the attic is crowned by a bust of Comus, wreathed with vines by two little satyrs—the group detaching itself against a trellised background enlivened with birds. The composition is completed by two lateral niches

PLATE LIII
DINING-CHAIR, LOUIS XIV PERIOD.

PLATE LIV. DINING-CHAIR, LOUIS XVI PERIOD.
The Dining-Room
159
for fountains, adorned with masks, tritons
and dolphins of gilded lead."
These built-in
sideboards and fountains were practically the only feature
distinguishing the old dining-rooms from other gala apartments. At a
period when all rooms were painted, panelled, or hung with
tapestry, no special style of decoration was thought needful for the
dining-room; though tapestry was seldom used, for the practical
reason that stuff hangings are always objectionable in a room intended for eating.
Towards the end of
the seventeenth century, when comfortable seats began to be made, an admirably
designed dining-room chair replaced the earlier benches and perroquets.
The eighteenth century dining-chair is now often confounded with the light
chaise volante used in drawing-rooms, and cabinet-makers
frequently sell the latter as copies of old dining-chairs. These were in fact much heavier and more
comfortable, and whether cane-seated or upholstered, were invariably made with
wide deep seats, so that the long banquets of the day might be endured
without constraint or fatigue; while the backs were low and narrow, in
order not to interfere with the service of the table. (See Plates L1I
and LIU. Plates XLV1 and L also contain good examples of dining-chairs.) In England the state
dining-room was decorated much as it was in France: the family dining-room was
simply a plain parlor, with wide mahogany sideboards or tall glazed cupboards
for the display of plate and china. The solid English dining-chairs of
mahogany, if less graceful than those used on the Continent, are equally well adapted to their purpose.
The foregoing
indications may serve to suggest the lines upon which dining-room
decoration might be carried out in the present day. The avoidance of all stuff hangings and
heavy curtains is
160 The
Decoration of Houses
of great importance: it will be observed that even window-curtains were seldom used in old dining-rooms,
such care being given to the
decorative detail of window and embrasure that they needed no additional ornament in the way of
drapery. A bare floor of stone or
marble is best suited to the dining-room; but where the floor is covered, it should be with a rug, not with a nailed-down
carpet.
The dining-room
should be lit by wax candles in side appliques or in a chandelier;
and since anything tending to produce heat and to exhaust air is especially
objectionable in a room used for eating, the
walls should be sufficiently light in color to make little artificial light necessary. In the
dining-rooms of the last century,
in England as well as on the Continent, the color-scheme was usually regulated by this principle: the dark
dining-room panelled with mahogany
or hung with sombre leather is an invention of our own times. It has already been said that the old family dining-room was merely a panelled parlor. Sometimes the
panels were of light unvarnished oak, but oftener they were painted in white or
in some pale tint easily lit by wax candles. The walls were often hung with fruit or flower-pieces, or with
pictures offish and game: a somewhat
obvious form of adornment which it has long been the fashion to ridicule, but which was not without decorative value and appropriateness. Pictures
representing life and action often
grow tiresome when looked at over and over again, day after day: a fact which the old decorators
probably had in mind when they hung
what the French call natures mortes in the dining-room.
Concerning the state
dining-room that forms a part of many modern houses little remains to be said
beyond the descriptions already given of the various gala apartments. It is obvious that
The Dining-Room
161
the banqueting-hall should be less brilliant
than a ball-room and less fanciful in decoration than a music-room: a severer
and more restful treatment naturally suggests itself, but beyond this no special indications are required.
The old dining-rooms
were usually heated by porcelain stoves. Such a stove, of fine architectural
design, set in a niche corresponding with that which contains the fountain, is
of great decorative value in the composition of the room; and as it
has the advantage of giving out less concentrated heat than an open fire, it is specially well
suited to a small or narrow dining-room, where some of the guests
must necessarily sit close to the hearth.
Most houses which
have banquet-halls contain also a smaller apartment called a breakfast-room;
but as this generally corresponds in size and usage with the ordinary
family dining-room, the
same style of decoration is applicable to both. However ornate the banquet-hall may be, the breakfast-room must of course be simple and free from gilding: the more
elaborate the decorations of the
larger room, the more restful such a contrast will be found.
Of the dinner-table, as we now know it,
little need be said. The ingenious but ugly
extension-table with a central support, now used all over the world, is
an English invention. There seems no reason
why the general design should not be improved without interfering with
the.mechanism of this table; but of course it can never be so satisfactory to
the eye as one of the old round or square
tables, with four or six tapering legs, such as were used in eighteenth-century dining-rooms before the introduction
of the "extension."
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